PARIS, LE MARAIS

In every city there will be inevitably an area or two where I will want to return time and again, to live and breath the atmosphere of the place. In Paris one of these places in Le Marais, historical Jewish quarters, now similar in atmosphere to London’s Soho. W kazdym miejscu zawsze znajde dzielnice lub dwie, do ktorych bede wracac aby pozyc ich atmosfera. W Paryzu jedna z takich wlasnie dzielnic jest Le Marais, historycznie dzielnica zydowska, dzis podobna nieco do londynskiego Soho.

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If you want to know the old Paris, Paris before Housmanian grand buildings and boulevards, Paris of narrow cobbled streets and old lanterns- don’t hesitate.

And how better to explore the area then by sampling the food? From the best Israeli specialities in town, take-away falafel where the queue reminds me of Poland behind the Iron Curtain (that is- the whole town queues up to buy a loo roll) to famous Chez Marianne- we’ve tried them all. Sitting outside in an Israeli restaurant on Rue des Rosiers or at Marianne’s (so much food to try) and watching Paris go by was one of our favorite past times.

There were tourists on the streets, too of course but Marais is a home to hip art galleries and cool boutiques so my green monster was on the loose every time I saw inevitably slender, tousled hair girl who looked a bit rock’nroll, a bit disheveled and very very Parisian. I wanted to run into nearest Iro boutique and grab everything in my size. I know, we have Iro in London, and Maje and Sandro, too but seeing these clothes on Parisian girls, nonchalantly and effortlessly put together made me want to have them to the point of obsession. Add to it Zadig & Voltaire or Mexicana super cool boots and you will be oozing cool, which is what I’m planning on doing very very soon 🙂

How do these slender girls resist the mouth watering home baked cakes in Marais? I will skip Pierre Hardy’s macaroons because I’m sure you know of them already. How about home made cheesecake (think Nigella Lawson) or delicate strudel with caramelized apples and raisins? Or perhaps I can tempt you with coconut pralines filled with coconut cream and meringue? These and much much more are sold every day (except shabbat) at Korcarz, a kosher bakery and a cafe. Run by lovely Mrs Irena and her crew, it’s full of family photographs and has a super warm, relaxing atmosphere. Add to it strong and delicious coffee and no wonder we kept returning, time and again, sampling new cakes at every visit.

But Marais is not just known for culinary delights and great shopping. If you are bit of a culture vulture you will love Picasso museum which houses 500 pieces of Picasson collection. Or maybe you will be interested in Jewish Museum with Dreyfus monument in the courtyard? Or Hôtel de Sully, early 17th century mansion house build for a notorious gambler who lost all his fortune in one night? Whatever you do, don’t forget to visit Places des Vosges, one of the most beautiful places in Paris (Victor Hugo used to live there) where you can find peace and quiet lying on the grass and listening to the fountain.

I saw a handwritten note on one of the delicatessen in Le Marais. It said “Gone on holiday. I’ll be back on 31 of August at 1.45”.

And that’s exactly what I want to do. I want to put a note on my door saying “Gone to Paris. I’ll back on 1 of September at 9am”. Until then you will find me in Le Marais.

Today’s photos were shot on Trocadero with Eiffel Tower as a backdrop. We had to get up at 5am to avoid the crowds but soon enough other photographers turned up with brides and grooms in tow. Photos are by my dad who was merciless when it came to dragging me out of bed in the morning!

I’m wearing:

Suede shirt by Jadzia Doroba

Skirt by Altuzarra for Target

Shoes- vintage

Bag- Chloe

PL

Jesli chcesz poznac stary Paryz, ten wybrukowanych, kretych uliczek i starch latarni, Paryz przed powstaniem majestatycznych kamienic i szerokich bulwarow, bez zastanowienia odwiedz Le Marais.

Czy jest lepszy sposob na poznanie dzielnicy niz poprzez smakowanie jej jedzenia? Od przepysznych izraelskich specjalow, poprzez falafel na wynos, po ktory kolejka przypominala mi ta w Polsce za zelazna kurtyna (czyli cale miasto stoi w ogonku po papier toaletowy) do slawnej restauracji Chez Marianne- sprobowalismy wszystkiego. Przesiadywanie w Izraelskiej restauracji w srodku Rue des Rosiers lub tez u Marianny zaraz za rogiem i gapienie sie na tetniace zyciem ulice bylo jedna z naszych ulubionych rozrywek.

Oczywscie na ulicach byli i turysci ale Le Marais jest zany z galerii sztuki oraz modnych butikow co poskutkowalo tym, ze moj zielonooki potwor urywal sie ze smyczy za kazdym razem kiedy wiedzialam kolejna smukla dziewczyne z potarganymi wlosami, wygladajaca troche rock’n’ roll i bardzo, bardzo po parysku. Za kazdym razem chcialam rzucic sie na najblizszy butik Iro i ogolocic go ze wszystkich ciuchw w moim rozmiarze. Jasne, w Londynie tez mamy butiki Iro, Maje oraz Sandro ale kiedy widzialam the ciuchy na Paryzankach, wygladajace nonszalancko i z pozoru niedbale, chcialam je tak bardzo, ze niamal graniczylo to z obsesja. Dodajcie do tego buty od Zadig & Voltaire lub Mexicany i bylabm najlepiej ubrana laska na ulicy- co zreszta planuje osiagnac juz wkrotce 🙂

Jak te szczuple dziewczyny moga oprzec sie wspanialym wypiekom, na ktore co krok napotykalismy sie na Marais? Pomine tutaj makaroniki od Pierre Hardy poniewaz na pewno je juz znacie. Co zatem powiecie na domowy sernik w stylu Nigelli Lawson? Lub tez strudel z delikatnego francuskiego ciasta wypelnionego karmelizowanymi jablkami i rodzynkami? A moze skusicie sie na kokosowa pralinke wypelniona bezami i kokosowym kremem? Te i inne wypieki sa podawane codziennie (oprocz szabasu) w kawiarni i piekarni Korcarz przy ulicy Rue des Rosiers. Prowadzona przez przemila pania Irene oraz jej zaloge, kawiarnia jest pelna rodzinnych fotografii i ma bardzo ciepla i relaksujaca atmosfere. Sprawialo to, ze wracalismy raz po raz aby probowac coraz to nowych wypiekow.

Ale Marais to nie tylko kulinarne delicje czy znakomite zakupy. Jesli interesujecie sie sztuka lub historia pokochacie museum Picassa, ktore miesci w sobie kolekcje zlozona z 500 obrazow. A moze wybierzecie sie do Muzeum Judaizmu, gdzie w podworzu stoi pomnik Dreyfusa? Albo odwiedzicie Hôtel de Sully, rezydencje zbudowana w XVII dla slawnego hazardzisty, ktory stracil cala swoja fortune w jedna noc? Gdziekolwiek sie wybierzecie, nie pomincie Places des Vosges, jednago z najpiekniszych zakatkow Paryza (znajduje sie tam dom Victora Hugo) gdzie znajdziecie cisze i spokoj lezac na trawie i sluchajac wody w fontannie.

Na drzwiach jednego z delikatesow w Marais zauwazylam recznie napisana karteczke o tresci “Jestem na wakacjach. Wracam 31 sierpnia o godzinie 1.45”.

I to jest dokladnie to co ja chcialabym zrobic- wywiesic kartke z napisem “Pojechalam do Paryza. Wracam 1 wrzesnia o 9 rano”. A to tego czasu znajdziecie mnie w Marais.

Moja dzisiejsza sesja odbyla sie na Trocadero z widokiem na wieze Eiffla. Musielismy wstac o 5 rano aby uniknac tlumow a i tak wkrotce pojawili sie inni turysci oraz fotografowie ciagnacy za soba slubne pary (w pelnym rynsztunku oczywscie). Zdjecia robil moj tata i to dzieki niemu udawalo nam sie dotrzec na zdjecia tak wczesnie rano – nie mial litosci przy porannej pobudce! 🙂

16 Responses to PARIS, LE MARAIS

  1. Kika says:

    Really like your style lately, reminds me a bit of 9 to 5 chic…Do you know it? I’m addicted to it, as it’s timeless and sooo egdy-elegant. It so funny that across the globe women are dressing up in a similar way (globalisation, mass-market, duh 😉 ) but there are still distinct “national” styles, like the sexy-Frenchy look, or minimal-Scandi, or…I don’t know if I’m right, but on judging certain parts of Warsaw, Polish girls may be nailing the hipster-look 🙂 not my cup of tea, but still, one needs to be proud of something 🙂 any looks that are “Polish” for you, personally? Kisses, K.

    • admin says:

      Thank you Kika for all your kind words and your support. It truly means a lot to us. I think you are right- women are dressing in in a similar way across the world. I remember before H&M, Zara and other big brands came to Poland, there were a lot of independent shops and smaller labels (at least in our corner of Poland) that are largely gone now. I still shop for shoes and leather goods in Poland which I think are simply superb 🙂 I meet Polish girls every day in London because of my line of work and I’m always proud how well they are turned out, they always have light make up on, good hair, manicures. The look that I associate a lot with Polish girls is a shrunken leather jacket and slim jeans (not skinnies though)- like Charlotte Gainsbourg but on a good hair day 🙂 Ana xxx

      • Kika says:

        yes, there is something “Polish” about liking leather (and good quality materials)…I’m moving back to London after a short spell in Warsaw, so looking forward to enjoying some of the brands that are missing here 🙂 oh, BTW, forgot to compliment the awsome amber bracelet! Feels like a Polish accent to me- a Trójmiasto-born gal 🙂

        • admin says:

          Thank you Kika! The bracelet is indeed a Polish accent- courtesy of a wonderful Damroka studio in Wladyslawowo 🙂 Ana

  2. Lara Rose says:

    Wow looks amazing! Love your blog and style

    xx

  3. messbyus says:

    tam mnie jeszcze nie było… wygląda przepięknie! 🙂
    To jedno z miejsc, które trzeba zobaczyć!

  4. Rochelle says:

    Beautiful pictures and beautiful outfit!
    Good vibes Fox
    -www.wanderlife.tv

  5. Piekne miejsce, ktore trzeba odwiedzic choc raz w zyciu 🙂 super

  6. Michèle says:

    wow. fantastic outfit head to toe. LOVE the skirt and how you styled it

    http://www.thefashionfraction.com

  7. Pauline says:

    Beautiful look, beautiful pictures, beautiful blog !
    xx Pau

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